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COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES.  	51

           river miles in length. The waters, cool and refreshing, are as clear as
           glass. Close to these are situated the San Antonio Water Works, where
           all visitors can receive the politest attention and be shown through the ex-
           tensive establishment, giving an immediate and lovely comprehension of
           the powers of art and of nature. A visit to the head of our river should not
           be neglected, for the impression produced will be beneficial and lasting.
                From all parts of the city, street car lines connect directly with that
           running to the
                         UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT HEADQUARTERS,
           situated at the top of Government Hill. Here can be seen the regular
           drills of the troops, and enjoyed the finest music that talent has given to
           any band in the state. The grounds which are kept in beautiful order at
           government expense, present an invitation to everybody to enjoy a stroll
           over their inviting green-sward. There are eight or ten handsome resi-
           dences of stone, all exactly alike, situated about 200 feet apart, forming a
           semicircle. They are the residences of the officers, while away to one
           side are the Barracks, affording the home for several hundred enlisted
           soldiers. All that art and money can do, has been exerted to beautify the
           hill, and truly it is a lovely sight to look upon.
                No one should neglect a visit to the military plaza, which is situated
           in the heart of the city. During the day, it is attractive in the greatest
            degree ; wagons from the country as thick as bees, with every ware and
            product that the people can gain from handwork or tillage, waiting their
            opportunity to sell ; dozens of buyers caviling about the fraction of a cent
            in some transaction ; in all the busy sound of life in its mercantile aspect,
            rendered more novel by the blending with habits and customs of the
            natives in early days. But the most novel and surprising sight to stran-
            gers, may be only witnessed at early morning, or after sunset. Let us
             here say that the "plaza" is an open square surrounded by business build-
            ings of handsome architecture, and would measure fully 200 yards square.
            Fully half of this space is occupied shortly after sunset, as the wagons
            leave for more comfortable quarters, by no less than fifty night vendors
            of eatables, nearly all of whom are Mexicans. And as dark approaches,
            to see the glinting lights marking the different stands, each with its log
            fire and pot suspended above, in busy preparation of the food, with the
            quaint style of speech sounding like the hum of a piece of machinery, so
            incessant is it, form at first sight a picture that is startling ; and becoming
            more used to it, assumes the aspect of something strange and interesting
            that could only be witnessed in foreign lands. It is a resort which no one
            should be too dainty to patronize, for although the-viands are served in a
            crude and rough style, they have assumed the position of dainties in the
            estimation of those who are used to the delicacies of a ''Fifth Avenue
            Hotel. Here are served, and it is probably the only place of its kind in
            the states, tamales, enchinals, tortejes, chili-con-came, fried chicken, cof-
            fee, etc., in fact everything that go to make a relish of a lunch meal.
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